In 2000, Karl Lagerfeld, Chanel’s creative director, decided to lose weight. “I had no health problems,” he said, “but I suddenly wanted to wear clothes designed by Hedi Slimane.” Mr Lagerfeld lost 90lbs and embraced a uniform of ultra-lean suits and jeans designed by the new head of Dior Homme, owned by LVMH. It was a potent symbol of Mr Slimane’s ability to stir consumer desire.
He also has a talent for whipping up controversy. This week it was announced that the 49-year-old designer will be the new artistic, creative and image director of the luxury house Céline, also owned by LVMH. One of fashion’s most divisive figures, idolised and disparaged in equal measure, Mr Slimane is returning to fashion after a hiatus of nearly two years, during which his next move had been a source of constant industry speculation.
Few imagined, however, that the impish figure with the hipster haircut would be arriving at a house synonymous with the intellectual, minimalist design of its outgoing creative director, Phoebe Philo. Retailers have responded enthusiastically, but loyal “Philophiles” are still recovering. Céline’s Instagram page is divided between comments that reflect fears he will inject a less subtle commercialism, and a pro-Slimane faction who proclaim that “the god has returned”.