A “chicken rice crisis” has sparked gastronomic panic for many Singaporeans this year. The de facto national dish of the city-state consists of poached, preferably fresh, chicken on a bed of rice. This has been scarce since Malaysia halted chicken exports in June. The ban is expected to lift later this month, according to Reuters, but a quick improvement to supply is unlikely.

Chicken is the most widely consumed meat in Singapore. The limited land area of the island means it imports nearly all its supplies, a third from its neighbour Malaysia. For decades, that proximity has meant that every month 3.6mn live chickens have crossed the border, albeit not voluntarily.

Malaysia is also one of the world’s largest consumers of chicken. It has been hit by a severe shortage resulting from world supply problems, rising input costs and clumsy state intervention in markets.